Hi to all you lovely sewing people. Are you ready for the next step on this journey? To recap: you’ve measured yourself carefully and decided which pattern will be the one you try. Now you are ready to figure out which size(s) to make. Come along, let’s get started.

Any pattern company worth its salt will, at the very least, include a body measurement chart. And the good ones, in my humble opinion, will include a finished garment measurement chart as well. If a finished garment measurement chart is not included, you can check the pattern pieces and see if those measurements are included on the pattern pieces themselves. (Patterns from “the big 4” often have this.) And if all else fails you can measure the pattern pieces at the relevant spots and subtract seam allowances. Obviously an actual chart is the handiest, but there are work-arounds, as you can see.

Now you should take the sheet of your body measurements and compare them to the body measurement chart and the finished garment measurements. This way you can get an idea of what the expected ease is at the different points. (If you’re wondering what in the world ease is, go here to read all about it.) Start by finding your body measurements on the pattern’s body measurement chart. I like to print out the body measurement chart so I can circle where my measurements land. (Yes, I am a very tactile person.) Keep in mind that these circles will likely fall across several sizes, and possibly in between sizes.

THIS IS PERFECTLY NORMAL.

I repeat: This is perfectly normal. (Psst. We will address how to cope with this in the next part of this series.) At this point I usually sit and stare at my circled body measurements and the finished garment measurements until I go cross-eyed. Then I go to bed and resume staring in the morning.

In all seriousness…A great way to see if those sizes will fit is to measure a garment you love in the corresponding spots. Please note that if the pattern is for a woven garment do measure a woven garment. And if the pattern is for knits, then measure a knit garment. This isn’t always an option, though, so you will need to look at the included ease and decide if this will be enough for your personal taste.

One word of caution about woven garments: If your garment will cover your waist and/or hip area, please make sure that the included ease will accommodate your sitting measurements. If there is not enough ease, you would be well served to size up in that specific area until your sitting measurements are accommodated.

I will always recommend making a trial garment, known as a muslin or toile, if you have doubts. And at the very least, make a wearable muslin in not-too-precious fabric so it doesn’t hurt quite so badly if it flops. There is little worse in sewing than flopping on your favorite fabric.

That’s all for today, friends. May your sewing go well this week.

Stephanie Jan