Hello again, sewing friends. I have a feeling this is going to get lengthy. So, if you read all the way to the end, I have a prize for you. Today I want to talk about how to measure. Good fit starts with correct measurements. And correct measurements start with an accurate measuring device. One of those flexible measuring tapes is preferred, but honestly, you can use a non-stretchy string and measure your body and then measure the distance on a rigid measuring device. I recommend checking your flexible measuring tape against a rigid measuring ruler every now and then, as those flexible ones are prone to stretching out. For sure if your kid uses it to tie their wagon to their bike. (Yes, it has happened.)
If possible, it is way easier to have someone help you with your measuring than to do it yourself. But, since not all of us have built in sewing buddies, doing this alone is possible. I think this may be the first skill I teach my young one to help me with. My further thoughts on this can work alone or with a buddy. If going it alone, a good sized mirror is super helpful.
All measurements should be taken while standing in a natural stance. Relax your shoulders. This is really hard to do when you are taking the measurements alone. Check your pattern for instructions on how to measure the high bust. Many Indie sewing patterns (short for independent, and basically means NOT McCall’s, Butterick, Simplicity, etc.) include a high bust measurement to aid you in choosing a base pattern size. Most times the high bust measurement is done with your bra OFF. This gives a truer picture of your ribcage/shoulder sizing since a bra can push body mass upwards. For all other body measurements, you should wear the same undergarments you plan to wear with the finished garment. Do you plan to always wear shapewear with it? Wear shapewear to measure. Do you plan to wear nothing extra? Then wear nothing extra to measure.
High bust measurement should be taken across the back, under the arms, and across the chest above the bust. Your measuring tape should be snug, but not pressing into your flesh. If your pattern does not have a high but measurement in the chart, you can figure it out using your full bust measurement and subtracting inches according to what cup size the pattern was drafted for. Most of the time (unless specified otherwise) pattern companies draft for a B cup, which means a 2 inch difference between high bust and full bust. Some pattern companies will draft for a B cup in the lower sizes and a D cup in the upper sizes. A D cup is a 4 inch difference between full and high bust.
Your full bust measurement needs to be taken across the fullest part of the bust and across your back, parallel to the ground. Again, this one should be taken snuggly, but not overly tight.
Waist measurement can be tricky. Where exactly is your waist? A simple trick is to take a piece of elastic slightly shorter than your waist and tie it around your midsection. Then bend forward, side to side, and move around. Raise your arms and such stuff. May as well get your stretches in. Once you are finished, measure where the elastic is sitting. With some fitted woven garment you may want to do what’s referred to as a sitting waist. While holding the measuring tape around your waist, sit down while allowing the measuring tape to slide. Your sitting waist will be larger than your standing waist.
Full hip measurement is next as we travel down, following gravity. Find the largest part below your waist and measure it. That point is often below the stomach, so I like to eyeball how much extra to add in so my stomach measurement is included. With fitted woven garments you will also want to do a sitting hip, which is done in similar fashion to the sitting waist.
One last measurement many pattern companies include is the bicep. Find the fullest part of your bicep and measure that with your arm neutral at your side.
Whew. That is a lot of information. I hope you can absorb some. I have fifteen other measurements I could talk about, but I’ll refrain. I’m not here to write a book.
Stephanie Jan
I promised a prize, so if you actually got all the way to the end, click HERE to get yourself a handy little measurement record sheet.
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